Thursday, 28 April 2011

Mazda B5 Engine Head/Block

Removing Cylinder Head from Mazda B5 Engine




     1.  Disconnect all cables and hoses that connected to cylinder head
     2.       Remove exhaust and intake manifolds
     3.       Take rocker cover off 
     4.       Remove timing belt cover
     5.       Mark direction and position of the belt at #1 cylinder TDC
6.       




    6. Carefully pull the belt off the cam sprockets
    7.   Holding cam with size 24 spanner, remove the cam shaft sprocket screw on each cam (note I-for intake and E- for exhaust markings on sprockets)
    8.  Take the metal timing belt protecting cover off   
    9.   Loosen the head bolts in order:
             Intake Side      
              1 7  9  6 4
              3 5 10 8 2
            Exhaust Side
  
     
      10.   Carefully lift the Engine Head, do not use screw driver or similar, because it is really easy to damage the machined surface of Head and Block.









Disassembling Engine Head

1.      
    1.  Loosen the cam shaft holding bolts
    2.  Keep cam shaft holders in order (note, arrow imprinted on cam holders indicates towards the crankshaft pulley, Letter “I” – stands for Intake side and “E”- stands for Exhaust side, numbers on each holder represents the position of the holder starting from “1”- from crank pulley)
    3.  Mark each valve’s position (eg. E1, E2….E8) (Tip: cardboard box can be used to keep valves in order. Simply pop the valve through the cardboard and write the position of the valve on the box)


      4.  Using correct size valve spring compressor remove the valves (Tip: magnet or magnetic screwdriver can be used to remove the valve keepers)
5.       Note that some of the valve springs have top and bottom sides
























Inspecting Cylinder Head

1.       Visual check of all components for any damage
2.       With metal ruler and filler gauge check the warp across, along and diagonal of the head surface. In my case it seems like head has been machined and it is 0mm warp in every direction.
3.       Make sure that valve guides are not damaged, visually check every valve guide. They all in OK condition (no cracks, no rust, no carbon built ups)

Valve Stem Measurement

Three measurements need to be taken per valve. Top (A), Middle (B) and Bottom (C) of the stem.

Cylinder 1
Cylinder 2
Cylinder 3
Cylinder 4
A on Valve 1
5.975mm
5.98mm
5.98mm
5.98mm
5.98mm
5.975mm
5.98mm
5.975mm
A on Valve 2
5.975mm
5.975mm
5.975mm
5.975mm
5.98mm
5.97mm
5.975mm
5.97mm
B on Valve 1
5.975mm
5.975mm
5.975mm
5.975mm
5.98mm
5.97mm
5.98mm
5.975mm
B on Valve 2
5.975mm
5.975mm
5.975mm
5.97mm
5.975mm
5.97mm
5.975mm
5.975mm
C on Valve 1
5.975mm
5.97mm
5.975mm
5.97mm
5.975mm
5.97mm
5.975mm
5.975mm
C on Valve 2
5.975mm
5.97mm
5.975mm
5.975mm
5.975mm
5.975mm
5.975mm
5.97mm

In
Ex
In
Ex
In
Ex
In
Ex
Average Reading 1
5.975mm
5.975mm
5.976mm
5.975mm
5.978mm
5.972mm
5.978mm
5.975mm
Average Reading 2
5.975mm
5.973mm
5.975mm
5.973mm
5.977mm
5.972mm
5.975mm
5.972mm




Unable to measure valve guides, therefore cannot calculate Valve Stem to Guide clearance. Specified clearance is 0.03mm – 0.04mm for Intake side, 0.04mm – 0.05mm for exhaust side.

Valves Condition

Examine all valves for any damage


Cylinder 1
Cylinder 2
Cylinder 3
Cylinder 4

Ex1
Ex2
In1
In2
Ex1
Ex2
In1
In2
Ex1
Ex2
In1
In2
Ex1
Ex2
In1
In2
Damage to the tip
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
Damage or wear in collet grooves
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
Pitting or erosion of valve stem
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
Marks on stem that have sharp edges
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
Signs of scuffing or seizure
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
Cracks or erosion in fillet area
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
Stretching of the stem
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
Straightness of the stem
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
Mechanical damage to the head, erosion or cupping
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
V
Valve Margin
1.5
1.2
1.0
1.0
1.6
1.5
0.8
0.8
1.2
1.2
0.9
0.9
1.2
1.5
0.5
0.5




Since minimum Valve margin is 1mm then 6 Valves need to be serviced/replaced.
Visually check the Valve seats for seat width, angle, thickness of remaining material and any sort of damage (cracks, erosion..)



Inspecting Valve Springs

Put a spring upright on flat surface and place a combination square next to it. Rotate the spring and measure the distance between a combination square and top of the spring with feeler gauge. It should not be more than 1/16 inch (1.59mm). The spring that is not square would cause uneven wear on Valve stem and Guide.

Cylinder #



Ok
Fail
1
In
1mm
1mm
V

Ex
1mm
1mm
V

2
In
1mm
1mm
V

Ex
0mm
1mm
V

3
In
0mm
1mm
V

Ex
1mm
1mm
V

4
In
1mm
1mm
V

Ex
1mm
1mm
V



Check the free length of the Valve Spring

Note all springs must be within 1.5mm of each other

Cylinder #



Ok
Fail
1
In
47mm
47mm
V

Ex
47mm
47mm
V

2
In
47mm
47mm
V

Ex
47mm
47mm
V

3
In
47mm
47mm
V

Ex
47mm
47mm
V

4
In
47mm
47mm
V

Ex
47mm
47mm
V



Valve Spring Tension

Valve Spring Pleasure tester is required. Place the spring in to the tester and compress the spring to 40mm and record the result. All springs should be within 5kg range.




Cylinder #



Ok
Fail
1
In
16.7kg
16.6kg
V

Ex
17.2kg
17.5kg
V

2
In
17.1kg
17kg
V

Ex
17.6kg
17.2kg
V

3
In
16.5kg
16.9kg
V

Ex
17.1kg
16.9kg
V

4
In
17.5kg
17.1kg
V

Ex
17kg
17.2kg
V



Inspecting camshaft for wear and general condition

Using micrometer measure camshaft lobes








Tightening sequence is....

intake side
8 6 2 4 10
9 3 1 5 7
exhaust side
 

Thursday, 14 April 2011

Testing 2N3055 Transistor

Here is the diagram of 2N3055 transistor taken from http://www.datasheetoo.com


the multimeter should be set up on diode test to check the transistor

V1-tab = 0.635 V
Vtab-1= OL
V1-2 = 0.637
V2-1 = OL
Vtab-2 = OL
V2-tab = OL


test showed that it has common connector that shows the voltage, which is 1. so connector 1 is Base.
0.637 V > 0.635 V. That means that connector 2 is Emitter and TAB is Collector.

Wednesday, 13 April 2011

Transistors

Different types of transistors


P - P type (holes)
N - N type (electrons)


transistors have tree (or more) connectors:
B - Base
E - Emitter
C - Collector
       Tip: E>C always!

transistors that used as switches normally act as two diodes connected together anode and anode or cathode to cathode.


two anodes connected called NPN


and acts as two cathodes connected together




Tip: how to tell which transistor is on the diagram:
Look at arrow
NPN - Not Point iN
PNP - Point iN Please





Relays

4 pin relay
Relay base layout:
connectors:
85 - coil negative
86 - coil positive
30,87 - Switch terminals (in 4pin relay 30 to 87 is NO( normally open))


5 pin Relay
Base Layout:
connectors:
85 - coil negative
86 - coil positive
30,87 - Switch terminals (NO( normally open))
30, 87A - Switch terminals (NC (normally closed))



using relays create a circuit which output two independent positive from one alarm negative
ver1

Ver2 suggested by Carl


relay in circuit powering Light Bulb.

relay in hi/low beam switching


Set of 4pin relays powering the window motor

another version suggested by Kit using two 5 pin relays

  

to prevent circuit components from back emf produced by inductor (relay coil) the diode is installed.
some automotive relays already come with built in diode.





Monday, 4 April 2011

Oxygen sensor


provided:
      Resistors:      R2, R3, R4 – 1K ohm 0.25W               (brown, black, red)
                           R5 – 390R ohm 0.25W                       (orange, white, brown)
                           R6 – 10K ohm 0.25W                        (brown, black, orange)
                           R7 – 270R ohm 0.25W                       (red, violet, brown)
                           R8 – 470R ohm 0.25W                       (yellow, violet, brown)
     
       Diodes:         D2, D3, D4 – 1N4001 - 50V 3A

      Zener Diode: D1 – 9.1V 0.5W

     Capacitors:  C1, C2 – 0.1uF 50V

      LEDs:         LED1- RED, LED5- Yellow, LED6- Green

      IC:               IC - LM324 with IC socket 

     Wires:         Green, Black and Red (about 0.5-0.75 meters each) with crocodile clips

     box.


here is the diagram taken from Unitec O2 components installation guide 



PCB After installing all components



Put the cables through the whole in the box


now it's testing time:
make sure that the power supply set to independent. set one side to about 12 V and the other at 0V. connect two negative wires from power supply together. connect O2 sensor to 12V side red to "+" and black to "-". connect green wire from O2 Sensor to other side of the power supply with 0V. green LED should illuminate, which indicates that mixture is lean.

rise the voltage from 0V to about 0.4V. Yellow LED should light up and Red should turn off. this indicates that the mixture is optimal.

go higher and at around 0.7V the red LED should come up and yellow should be off. this indicates that the mixture is rich.

after successfully tested sensor can be connected to the car to check if your O2 sensor is working. also can be used in everyday driving to monitor the mixture.  

Battery Testing

There are number of tests that can be performed to check the condition of the battery. Today I am going to check my battery EXIDE X56C with 550 CCA. It is maintenance free type of the batteries.


First is visual test.
 Check the battery for leaks, cracks, and signs of swelling, check that terminals are clean. Check that electrolyte in all cells is at recommended level (if not, add distil water)


OCV test 
Open Circuit Voltage requires voltmeter. Get voltage readings from the battery terminals (doors should be closed, IGN key is out and all interior/exterior lights should be turned off).  Surface Charge must be removed by turning on headlights for about one minute.
Readings:
12.6 V – 12.7 V = 100% of Charge
12.45 V – 12.5 V = 75% of Charge
12.3 V – 12.4 V = 50 % of Charge
12.15 V – 12.2 V = 25 % of Charge


the Voltage is 12.77V. PASS
If Voltage is less than 12.3 V then Battery should be charged overnight. 13.8 V-14.9 V power supply can be used with current of 2A-8A to charge the battery (lower Current and longer charging time is better). Connect “+” on power supply with “+” battery and “-“  power supply with “-“ battery terminal.


Hydrometer Test.
 Hydrometer, Safety Glasses and source of water nearby are required. Open cell caps in all cells. Place hydrometer in the cell and squeeze the rubber top on hydrometer. Let some electrolyte in (not too much, just enough to make the tube inside hydrometer to float).  Eye level should be in height with fluid inside the hydrometer in order to get correct readings.


1.240 – 1.260 = 100% Charged
1.210 – 1.240 = 75% Charged
1.180 – 1.210 = 50 % Charged
 1.150 – 1.180 = 25 % Charged

In my case battery is sealed. unable to perform this Test.

High rate discharge test
for this test we need load tester. we would need to apply a half of battery's CCA (550/2=275A) for 15-20 seconds. During this test battery's voltage should not drop below 9.6 Volts. connect load tester cables to battery's terminals, positive to positive and negative to negative. Rotate the knob on load tester until you reach 275 Amps. Keep an eye on build in Volt Meter (or you can use separate one) the voltage should not go below 9.6V mark during 15-20 seconds. voltage reading: 10.2V. PASS 
alternatively, car's starter can be used instead of load tester. make sure you disconnect the IGN coil (to prevent car from starting). connect your voltmeter to the battery and get someone to crank the engine while you taking Voltage readings.


Amp Draw


This test determines how much current drains from the battery when the car is off, all doors are closed and IGN key is out. For this test we need working Amp meter. DO NOT START THE CAR as you can damage your Amp meter (if it's unfused). Make sure you connect Amp meter in series with battery (so the current will flow through the Amp meter). Connect Battery Negative to Amp meter Negative and car's negative terminal to Amp meter positive. Accepted range is 0.03-0.05 Amps. 

it's 0.025 A. PASS


Digital Battery Test
This is the most common test that used by battery dealers nowadays. since the tester powered by the Battery being tested, make sure the voltage of the battery is not below 7 Volts. connect tester to battery's terminals, positive to positive and negative to negative. Once connected, the tester should display the voltage of the battery. using "arrow up" and "arrow down" buttons choose the right CCA for your battery, in my case it's 550 CCA. once selected correct CCA press "test" button. The Tester might show the following "CH"- charge the battery to continue the test, "PASS" - no faults found and battery is in good order, "FAIL" - fault was detected during the test.
I got "PASS".

Battery Report:
The Battery has passed all tests and it is in good condition and does not require any further testing/maintenance. Battery is ready to use.