Checking alternator on 1991 Toyota MR2. Make sure that the vehicle is in neutral (or park) and hand brake is applied firmly.
Check list:
- Does Charge light work? Yes
- Visual condition of the connectors. OK
- Alternator mounting. OK
- Fuses and fusible links. OK
- Condition of the drive belt (tension, cracks or rips). OK
Tools required: Hight rate discharge tester, multimeter, clamp amp meter.
No load test.
Battery OCV (Open Circuit Voltage) - 12.67V
for this test all doors need to be closed, all lights switched off and ignition key is out. Alternatively, Battery negative terminal can be disconnected. Using digital multimeter measure voltage of the battery.
Specified Regulator voltage - 14.9V
voltage is found in service manual for the car. acceptable voltage is 13.5V to 15V
Regulator Voltage Reading - 14.89V
start the car. measure the voltage at the battery while engine is running.
No load Current output - 15A @14.7V
Clamp Amp Meter required for this test. place clamp over negative/positive battery terminal. readings for carburettered car should be 5A to 12A and for fuel injected - 10A to 18A.
Current output under the load - 80A@13.4V
High Rate Discharge Tester is required for this task. Dial 50 Amps on the Tester, start the engine and connect the tester terminals to the battery. Rev the car up to 2000 RPM and turn the tester ON for no more than 20seconds. Take the readings from Load Tester.
The Alternator has Passed all tests and it is fully functional.
OFF Car Check
Visual inspection: check the alternator for any Damage to back cover, bearings, terminals...
No load test.
Battery OCV (Open Circuit Voltage) - 12.67V
for this test all doors need to be closed, all lights switched off and ignition key is out. Alternatively, Battery negative terminal can be disconnected. Using digital multimeter measure voltage of the battery.
Specified Regulator voltage - 14.9V
voltage is found in service manual for the car. acceptable voltage is 13.5V to 15V
Regulator Voltage Reading - 14.89V
start the car. measure the voltage at the battery while engine is running.
No load Current output - 15A @14.7V
Clamp Amp Meter required for this test. place clamp over negative/positive battery terminal. readings for carburettered car should be 5A to 12A and for fuel injected - 10A to 18A.
Current output under the load - 80A@13.4V
High Rate Discharge Tester is required for this task. Dial 50 Amps on the Tester, start the engine and connect the tester terminals to the battery. Rev the car up to 2000 RPM and turn the tester ON for no more than 20seconds. Take the readings from Load Tester.
The Alternator has Passed all tests and it is fully functional.
OFF Car Check
Visual inspection: check the alternator for any Damage to back cover, bearings, terminals...
Disassembly:
<!--[if !supportLists]-->1. <!--[endif]-->Unscrew the nut on “B+” terminal and insulator.
<!--[if !supportLists]-->2. <!--[endif]-->Remove three nuts holding the back cover and take it off
3. Remove the brush holder and voltage regulator.
4. Remove the four screws that hold the rectifier, remove the rectifier.
5. Remove the four screws that hold the voltage regulator, remove the regulator.
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